When It's Not All About the Food

December 2008

Some travel destinations are so entwined with their gastronomical pleasures that they seem to shout at us: IT’S ALL ABOUT THE FOOD! Think New Orleans’ famous Cajun and Creole cooking, or how synonymous San Francisco is with “California Cuisine,” a form of dining that champions eating in-season local ingredients and which introduced us to fusion cooking and artful presentation.

And then there are some places that keep their mouths shut when it comes to food because, in keeping with an old adage, they have nothing nice to say. Such was the case with my family’s recent vacation to Crystal River, Florida. An inquiry I made on the celiac listserv about local restaurants and grocery stores netted me only two – TWO - responses. Neither of them encouraging.

Crystal River is situated along the west coast of Florida, about 70 miles north of Tampa and 70 miles west of Orlando. Yet it has little resemblance to either of these places. There is no thriving business culture, art scene, or vibrant Gulf coast beaches like Tampa. Nor any of the fantastical make-believe whimsy of Orlando’s theme park scene and the accompanying security of Disney’s noteworthy celiac-friendliness. Heck, Crystal River doesn’t even have chain restaurants. One guidebook I consulted went so far as to advise day trippers to pack a picnic lunch. That’s because Crystal River, and surrounding Citrus County, is known as the Nature Coast. Its main attraction is the great outdoors itself.

If nature is the draw to this area, then the West Indian manatee is the star. These large marine mammals are herbivores that inhabit warm, shallow, marshy coastal waters predominantly around Florida. In the winter months, they tend to congregate in mild, constant-temperature spring-fed rivers such as the seven-mile long Crystal River that flows through the town of the same name. The Homosassa River, seven miles further south, is another favorite hang-out.

The easiest way to observe manatees in this natural habitat is through a floating glass observatory at the Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park, on the Homosassa River. Those willing to don a wetsuit and brave the 72-degree water can get up-close and personal with these 10-foot, 1200 pound creatures by joining a guided snorkel tour in either the Homosassa River or the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge in Kings Bay, which forms the headwaters of Crystal River.

Manatees are an endangered species, protected by the U.S. Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972 and the U.S. Endangered Species Act of 1973. Human interaction with them is controlled by the Florida Manatee Sanctuary Act of 1978, which makes it illegal to annoy, harass, or disturb one of these creatures. Before heading out by boat into Kings Bay with American Pro Diving Center, one of the largest outfitters in the area, we were shown a film about the dos and don’ts of our manatee meet up.

Once on the water, we were all on the lookout for manatees. A telltale sign is a circle on the water’s surface formed when the mammal must pop its nose up to breathe air every 3-5 minutes. Soon we were all slinking into the water, moving as softly as possible towards a small herd, with hopes that one of them would choose to come close to us. It is permissible to pet manatees if they initiate the encounter. Two of my sons, ages 12 and 14, got the biggest surprise when a 5-foot calf swam up to them, rolled over like a puppy, seeming to ask for a belly rub, and then excreted. Oh, it was a highlight!

Another day we rented a kayak and a canoe, and then paddled up the Homosassa River towards the state park. Along the way, we blissfully observed manatees surfacing, swimming, and resting in the shallow waters. Equally thrilling was the sight of two dolphins gliding beneath our boats before zealously slashing though the water in pursuit of a school of fish. Later, while sitting on the dock outside our rented cottage down river from the state park, we watched in awe as several manatees seemed to revel in the sunlight speckled afternoon.

Our “cottage,” however, was not so awesome. Basically a one-bedroom trailer set upon stilts, the putrid smell of fish was the first thing to greet us after we’d checked in at the “office” that was really a dry-docked boat. There are six rental units at the Last Resort in Homosassa, each with a full kitchen, living room, bedroom, bathroom, and deck. Our unit appeared to be halfway through a much-needed renovation. The bedroom and bathroom were completely worn out, with uncomfortable beds and broken built-in dresser drawers. The kitchen, though, was clean, and once the property owner disinfected the fishy refrigerator, we visited a nearby grocery store and a citrus stand to settle in.

Publix, Sweetbay, and Winn Dixie, were the three big grocery store chains we found in Crystal River and Homosassa. All three carried a good selection of gluten-free products, leading me to believe there must be people in the area with celiac disease. After trying to find gluten-free food at local restaurants, however, I also came to believe that none of these supposed people with celiac ever ate out.

We dined at three different restaurants in the area, and then only after scrutinizing a number of restaurant menus, assessing my chance of getting a gluten-free meal. At not one of these places had anyone ever heard of celiac disease. Being on the rivers, with the Gulf of Mexico a few miles away, at least seafood did figure prominently on the menus. Fried seafood! So at the Marguerita Grill in Homosassa, I stuck with a bunless hamburger and side salad with oil and vinegar. At the Homosassa Riverside Resort restaurant, where they understood I had a “wheat allergy,” I did enjoy grilled grouper, baked potato, and steamed vegetables. Still, the waitress wondered why I hadn’t yet outgrown my allergy. The third place we ate was a Thai restaurant, called Thai Phoon, where I had Pad Thai.

These dining experiences, though, were just a footnote in our overall vacation experience. We snorkeled two times with the manatees in Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge, and my husband and I went scuba diving in an overhead cavern. Another afternoon we all snorkeled/scuba dived down the spring-fed Rainbow River, in Rainbow Springs State Park. With crystal clear water ranging in depth from 3-18 feet, the current pushed us along, providing an ever changing view of fish life and vegetation.

On the final full day of our vacation we hired a small fishing charter, hoping to catch enough for a fish fry of our own, gluten-free style. Despite our boat captain’s best efforts to help with our quest, we caught only one keeper; the dozens of others were either too small or not good eating. Not willing to stink up our kitchen for one measly fish, we tossed it to a blue heron that had been patiently watching us from a nearby rock crop. With one long gulp, the fish slowly disappeared down the heron’s throat. “That’s so cool,” exclaimed our boys. My husband snapped a picture. It was truly all about nature.

Helpful Information

Citrus County Website
http://www.visitcitrus.com/

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge
www.fws.gov/crystalriver/

Homosassa Springs State Park
4150 S. Suncoast Blvd.
Homosassa, FL
352-628-5343
www.floridastateparks.org/homosassasprings

Rainbow Springs State Park
19158 S.W. 81st Pl. Rd.
Dunnellon, FL
352-465-8555
www.floridastateparks.org/rainbowsprings/

American Pro Diving Center
821 S.E. Highway 19
Crystal River, FL
352-563-0041
http://www.americanprodiving.com/

Last Resort
10738 Halls River Rd.
Homosassa Springs, FL
352-628-7117


Homosassa Riverside Resort
5297 S. Cherokee Way
Homosassa, FL
352-628-2474
http://www.riversideresorts.com/

Marguerita Grill
10200 W. Halls River Rd.
Homosassa, FL
352-628-1336ecember 2008

Going to Atlanta

In preparation for my trip to Atlanta to visit a friend, I'm putting together a list of places where I can get gluten-free food. As of now, all of this information is gleaned from other sources, including the celiac listserv and personal blogs.

Pizza Fusion in Buckhead, http://www.pizzafusion.com/. They do make gluten pizzas here as well, but also take precautions to prevent cross-contact with the gluten-containing foods. Apparantly, this Pizza Fusions location makes its gf crust in a separate spot in the kitchen, but not all Pizza Fusions do this. Here is a link to a blog with an interview with the owner of the Atlanta Pizza Fusion at 2233 Peachtree Road, Suite MAtlanta, GA 30309 / 404-351-9334.
http://gladtobeglutenfree.blogspot.com/2008/06/finally-gluten-free-pizza-in-atlanta.html

Z Pizza has three locations in the Metro Atlanta area. Check http://www.zpizza.com/ for locations. The author of the "Glad to Be Gluten Free" blog doesn't like the Midtown store location due to the staff seeming uninterested in the needs of gluten-free diners, and also stated that parking in that area is a hassle. A better experince was had at the Alpharetta store, as well as the newest location in Duluth, where she also got a gluten-free apple pie pizza for dessert.

Pepperoni's in Duluth GA has gotten high marks for its gluten-free pizza crust. They are also working in serving gluten-free pasta and desserts. They already have some gluten-free ciders and Bard Tale beer.

Virginia Highlands (near the Junkma n's Daughter) either already has gf pizza or will soon. They use the same crust as Z Pizza.

Another reisdent of Atlanta has found a GF Baker that she loves. Called Little Red Hen, it does not have a retail location; it only does custom orders, including wedding cakes, special occasion desserts, and items such as red velvet cake and gingerbread house and cookies. They deliver in the Atlanta metro area. Call (404) 376-3410.
http://www.littleredhenbakeshop.com/

The following chain restaurants in Atlanta have gluten-free menus.

Bonefish Grill

Bugaboo Creek Steakhouse, 8215 Roswell Rd., Building 600, Atlanta. 800-434-6245

The Capital Grille, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Atlanta. 404-262-1162

Carrabba's Italian Grill, 2999 Cumberland Blvd., Atlanta. 770-437-1444
Carrabba's Italian Grill, 1210 Ashford Crossings, Atlanta. 770-804-0467

Cheeseburger in Paradise, 1230 Ashford Crossing, Atlanta. 770-730-0782

Fleming's Steakhouse, 4501 Olde Perimeter Way, Atlanta. 770-698-8112

Legal Seafood

Mimi's Cafe, 1221 Ashford Crossing, Atlanta. 770-351-8444

Outback Steakhouse, 3850 Roswell Rd. NE, Atlanta. 404-266-8000
Outback Steakhouse, 2145 Lavista Rd., Atlanta. 404-636-5110
Outback Steakhouse, 1220 Ashford Crossing, Atlanta. 770-481-0491

P.F. Chang's China Bistro, 500 Ashwood Parkway, Atlanta. 770-352-0500

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, 267 Marietta St., Atlanta. 404-223-6500
Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, 5788 Roswell Rd. NW, Atlanta. 404-255-0035
Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, 950 E. {aces Ferry Rd., Atlanta. 404-365-0660

Ted's Montana Grill, 1874 Peachtree Rd., Atlanta. 404-355-3897
Ted's Montana Grill, 133 Luckie St., Atlanta. 404-521-9796

Other recommendations for Celiac-Friendly restaurants:

Brasserie Le Coz, Lenox Square Mall.
Cedar's, Lenox Rd.

Doc Chey's Asian Kitchen, http://www.doccheys.com/

Fogo De Chao, http://www.fogodechao.com/

Four Seasons on Peachtree at 14th St. According to one celiac listserv post, the chef at Four Seasons does a gluten free High Tea, but please call ahead.

Himalaya's Indian Restaurant, Peachtree Industrial Rd.

Houstons

Jitlada, La Vista Rd.

Maggiano's Little Italy, 3368 Peachtree Rd., Atlanta. 404-816-9650
Maggiano's Little Italy, 4400 Ashford Dunwoody Rd., Atlanta. 770-804-3313

Rathbum

Roy's, http://www.roysrestaurant.com/

Saba Restaurant, 1451 Oxford Rd., NE, Atlanta.
Saba Restaurant, 350 Meade Rd., Decatur. http://www.saba-restaurant.com/

Woodfire Grill, http://www.woodfiregrill.com/

MORE:

Here to Serve Restaurants is a conglomeration of serveral restaurants in the Atlanta area that apparantly can provide gluten-free meals if they have enough notice. http://www.heretoserverestaurants.com/. Included are:

Goldfish
Prime
Shout (located inMidtown) but they do not have gf soy sauce for the sushi.
Twist

Restaurants owned by the Buckhead Life Group, including Buckhead Diner, and Nava, are said to accomodate the gluten-free diet.

The GIG Gluten Free Restaurant Awareness Program has a list of restaurants that have undergone their training program. http://www.glutenfreerestaurants.org/index.php

The Essential Gluten-Free Restaurant Guide (2nd edition) 2007-2008 lists numerous other restaurants for the Atlanta area. It's a great resource that can be purchased at http://www.triumphdining.com/

Atlanta has a Meet-Up Gluten-Free Dining Group. http://www.meetup.com/atlantagfdinnerclub/

A site listing Gluten-Free friendly restaurants in Atlanta. http://www.urbanspoon.com/t/9/1/Atlanta/Gluten-free-friendly-restaurants

A Gluten-Free Guide for Atlanta.
http://aglutenfreeguide.com/category/atlanta

Washington, DC as a Battleground - September 2008

There’s a war going on in Washington, DC that has nothing to do with Iraq, Afghanistan, the upcoming presidential election, or the economy. Instead, it’s a battle about something that fits in the palm of your hand, requires experience with chemical reactions, and, um, tastes sweet. This is a war about one of the city’s latest food fads: cupcakes.

I don’t know exactly when cupcakes took front line among our nation’s capital foodies because I’m still a relative newbie to the Washington, DC area food scene – I moved back here a year ago after a decade away. But I do know there are more than a dozen bakeries deeply entrenched throughout the city, all hustling a cornucopia of cupcake flavors.

At first I didn’t pay any attention to the hoopla because, as we all know, bakeries and celiacs just don’t mix. Then I heard through the celiac list that a new place, Hello Cupcake, was baking gluten-free cupcakes from scratch on a daily basis. The reports also said the cupcakes were really good. So when an old friend recently asked if he could come for a visit and take in some DC highlights, I strategically designed an itinerary that would include this new bakery. It would be the first stop of the day, followed by my other sightseeing priorities: a gluten-free lunch at the National Museum of American Indians and dinner at a gluten-friendly restaurant.

Hello Cupcake is located on Connecticut Ave., NW, near the Dupont Circle Metrorail stop on the Red Line. Metrorail has five color-coded subway lines that all traverse the city center on their way to and from various suburbs in Maryland and Virginia. Fortunately for me, the Red Line is the artery that extends to my neck-of-the-woods in Maryland, and then flows into the city via numerous upscale neighborhoods, the venerable National Institutes of Health, the National Zoological Park, Chinatown, and Union Station, before pumping people out to other neighboring Maryland towns.

Organizing our day in Washington, DC solely around where I was going to eat was, I’m sure, not what my friend, Carl, had in mind when he came to visit. Still, he was intrigued with the cupcake wars. Mostly because the trend hadn’t yet taken hold in Atlanta, where he lives now, but also because baking is one of his passions. So it was with much anticipation that we both stepped into Hello Cupcake, taking our place in line behind several customers who each seemed to want a detailed description of the dozen or more flavors of cupcakes that were on display that day. All told, the bakery’s master menu includes about 50 different flavors, with about a quarter of them prepared on any given day. While waiting in line, we admired the bakery’s Neapolitan décor (chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry!), two pink chandeliers, and the eco-friendly packaging.

Only one flavor of gluten-free cupcake is baked each day, and they are always the first item prepared each day. Penny Karas, the bakery’s owner, explained that the kitchen is cleaned and sanitized every evening. Then, in the wee hours of the morning, when the bakers’ day begins, the first and only batch of gluten-free cupcakes for the day is baked. Karas believes that baking gluten-free first thing in the morning helps minimize any potential cross-contact in the kitchen. Several dozen are made at that time, but once they’re gone, that’s it for the day.

While Hello Cupcake’s owner and staff seemed knowledgeable and enthusiastic about providing treats for the celiac community, they also seemed eager to hear my evaluation of their product. Between mouthfuls of my classic vanilla with chocolate frosting cupcake, I gushed about the exquisite texture of the cake – not dry, grainy, or crumbly, nor dense and gummy – and the just right sweetness of the frosting. But I also knew I was biased, this being the first time I’d eaten in an honest-to-goodness bakery since my celiac diagnosis in 2001. So I turned to Carl, hoping he’d present a more objective analysis. He did - first with a detailed and technical description of the texture, but then with a smile and a shrug, he stated that the cupcakes just tasted really good. Another point to note is that the gluten-free cupcakes cost the same price as their gluten counterparts - $3.00 each.

Hopping back onto the Metrorail we made our way to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian. Opened in 2004, the museum’s permanent and temporary exhibits are devoted to sharing the beliefs, history, identity, and art of native peoples of the Western Hemisphere. After spending about an hour in the permanent exhibit called “Our Peoples – Giving Voice to our Histories,” Carl declared it riveting, yet emotionally exhausting because it deals largely with the often brutal elimination of the Native Indian way of life. He suggested we take a lunch break.

Among all the food establishments located within the Smithsonian Institution complex, which includes 19 museums, the American Indian museum café is the only one to my knowledge that labels major allergens and gluten-free food. Mitsitam Café (meaning, “Let’s Eat” in the Native language of the Delaware and Piscataway peoples) is a large cafeteria with separate stations that highlight Native foods from various regions. This includes: the Great Plains, Meso America, Northern Woodlands, the Northwest Coast, and South America. The hardest part was deciding “where” to eat, as each Native region offered several gluten-free options, and they all looked wholesome and scrumptious!

After lunch, Carl and I walked next-door to the U.S. Botanic Gardens. An avid gardener, he probably could’ve spent an entire day exploring the Garden’s Conservatory and two permanent outdoor gardens. My goal was to see a temporary exhibit called “One Planet - Ours! Sustainability for the 22nd Century,” because an acquaintance who is a sculptor and a horticulturalist had designed a pervious walkway for the exhibit. We both came away with fresh ideas for honoring the environments in which we live.

Late afternoon found us sitting in a coffee shop near the Federal Center SW metro stop, with me munching on a gluten-free vanilla frosted cupcake from Hello Cupcake. Earlier in the day, when I hadn’t been able to decide between chocolate and vanilla, I planned ahead and bought one of each, knowing there’d be an afternoon cup of coffee in my future that would go great with a cupcake!

Afternoon soon turned to dusk, and the streets of DC buzzed with activity as museums disgorged intrepid tourists, and local workers trudged toward home, or perhaps happy hour and dinner at a favorite restaurant. Carl and I hopped aboard Metrorail, exited at Metro Center, and then hiked up 13th Street past a homeless shelter and the National Museum of Women in the Arts before entering a posh legal office where another old friend bided her days. Recently diagnosed with celiac disease, this friend took on the gluten-free diet pretty much as she had law school when she was a divorced mother with two children – with grit and wit. She declared we were dining that night at The Capital Grille, where the bartenders knew her by name, and that she was buying.

The Capital Grille in Washington, DC is called the “premier political watering hole in town,” by Frommer’s “Washington, D.C. day by day” guide book. More important to me, though, was whether or not they could provide a gluten-free meal. And the answer to that is: Yes...but always alert the manager to your dietary needs because most menu items must be modified. Dinner also comes with a hefty price tag, but with my friend treating, I dined lavishly on Greek salad, steak (no sauce), flourless chocolate espresso cake, and probably too much wine. But no gluten-free cupcakes.

Helpful Information:

Hello Cupcake
1351 Connecticut Ave.,NW
Washington, DC 20036
202-861-2253
http://www.hellocupcakeonline.com/
Open Monday – Thursday 10-7, and Friday – Saturday 10-9. Closed Sunday.

The National Museum of American Indians
Fourth Street & Independence Ave. SW
Washington, DC 20560
202-633-1000
http://www.nmai.si.edu/
Open daily 10-5:30.

U.S. Botanic Gardens
245 First St., SW
Washington, DC 20024
202-225-8333
http://www.usbg.gov/
Open daily 10-5 (Conservatory), 10-7 (Gardens).

The Capital Grille
601 Pennsylvania Ave., NW
Washington, DC 20004
202-737-6200
http://www.thecapitalgrille.com/
Lunch: Monday – Saturday 11:30 – 3:00.
Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5-10; Friday – Saturday 5-11.

It's All Good in New Zealand

Two days after my 45th birthday, I sent my husband off to work, took the kids to school, and made my way to the airport where I checked a single bag through to New Zealand. Then, with only the slightest twinge of guilt about my solo jaunt, I shouldered my daypack containing a few gluten free snacks and other essentials, boarded the plane, and never looked back.

Now, some people might say I was having a midlife crisis. I had never contemplated my trip in such terms. Instead, my thoughts had been focused on the sights I would see, the people I would visit, and the food I would eat. Once aboard the plane for the excruciatingly long 12-hour flight from Los Angeles to Auckland, New Zealand, however, I had plenty of time to think. Was I indeed mourning the passing of my youth, remorseful that I’d spent my life following my husband’s career and raising children? Was I seeking something more than a brief respite? While pondering my life, at least I didn’t have to agonize over my in-flight gluten free meals. Both dinner and breakfast were served without a hitch, labeled with my name and seat number.

Located in the South Pacific Ocean, New Zealand is a long way from anywhere. Its closest neighbor, Australia, is 1400 miles to the northwest. Small in size, ranging over two main islands (North Island and South Island) and multiple smaller ones, the total land area is similar to Colorado. Yet because these islands stretch over 900 miles from top to bottom, the dazzling landscape encompasses pristine sandy beaches, native temperate evergreen rainforests, active volcanoes, geothermal areas, rolling hillsides, large coastal plains, scenic rivers and lakes, a chain of mountains 340 miles long, ice-carved fiords, and even glaciers. It was the perfect place to connect with myself, my friends, and the land.

Thirty percent of New Zealand’s terrain is protected to preserve its unique natural and historic resources. Extremely strict customs regulations further aid in this conservation. All food must be declared upon entering the country, and absolutely no fruit, meat, or honey is allowed. Since I’d carried only a small amount of packaged gluten free food items with me, three hours after landing in Auckland I found myself shopping in a suburban Woolworths grocery store with my old friend Detta.

Detta was the first mate I made when I’d lived in New Zealand many years ago as a teenage foreign exchange student. Since then, we’d stayed in touch via letters and one subsequent visit, comparing notes about college, jobs, marriage, and children. Her only daughter is named after me! She also knew about my celiac disease, so before my arrival had scouted out a few places for me to purchase gluten free food. This particular Woolworths baked gluten free bread twice a week and carried an ample supply of packaged GF items such as cereal, crackers, cookies, food bars, and pasta.

With the shopping done, we headed downtown to Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour and caught a ferry to Rangitoto Island. Formed by a series of volcanic eruptions over 600 years ago, but now extinct, Rangitoto is one of about 50 islands that lie in the Hauraki Gulf on the east side of the city. The favorite activity on this public reserve is exploring the craggy lava crops and lush native bush, either independently on foot or on a guided vehicle tour. We'd never have admitted it if we preferred to ride rather than walk, so - without question - we hiked the moderately graded trail to the summit, through old lava caves, and around the crater rim. We allowed intermittent pauses to admire the spectacular views and take photos, but never to catch our breath!

As a population, New Zealanders are outdoor people. Walking, hiking, camping, kayaking, boating, sailing, fishing, diving, and just spending time at the countless beaches are all popular activities. On my second day with Detta, we went boating under the Auckland Harbour Bridge and I learned to kneeboard. On the third day we went caving.

South of Auckland, the Waikato region has an extensive underground system known as the Waitomo Caves. The best-known of these, Waitomo Glowworm Cave, is navigated by tour boats. We thought this sounded too mundane, so instead went to privately owned Nikau Cave, where we donned hard hats to protect our heads and had only water-proof flashlights to illuminate our way. Then, we dropped feet first into a 9-foot shaft, commando-crawled our way though an ice-cold underground stream flowing through a narrow shallow tunnel, and contorted our bodies to fit through seemingly impossible passages to emerge in a cave alive with the shimmering larvae of Arachnocampa luminosa, or glowworms. Thousands of them dangled from the ceiling, shining like stars above an open sea. It was surreal. Otherworldly.

Not far from Nikau Cave, on the North Island’s west coast near Port Waikato, there is another world. It’s where New Zealand born Peter Jackson filmed Weathertop Hollow for his epic movie trilogy Lord of the Rings. In fact, all three movies were shot at various locations around New Zealand, making it easy for fans to explore the country simply by seeking out sights of Middle Earth. For example, the story’s epicenter of evil, the fiery Mt. Doom, is really Mount Ngauruhoe, one of three active volcanoes (the other two are Tongariro and Ruapehu) in Tongariro National Park. It was my next destination.

I was now hooked up with two other old friends from my teenage years. Back then, we’d climbed the 9,175 foot Mt. Ruapehu on a school outing. This time we were tackling the challenging 7-8 hours Tongariro Alpine Crossing, considered one of the finest walks in the country. It traverses desolate lava fields, active steam vents, emerald green crater lakes, mountain slopes awash with tussock, and verdant pine forests brimming with bird song. Ascending a steep incline called “The Devil’s Staircase,” with Mt. Doom - I mean Ngauruhoe - looming above me, I felt the inherent evil of middle age with every step. Or maybe it was just the effect of too much wine from the night before!

Thanks to New Zealand’s diverse range of climates and soil types, the country produces an array of wines. Most notable is its Sauvignon Blanc, which is “rated throughout the world as the definite benchmark for this varietal” (New Zealand Winegrowers). Some of the best Sauvignon Blanc, in my opinion, comes from the South Island’s Marlborough and Nelson regions. An overnight stay at Sunset Valley Vineyard, a family owned organic winery that offers accommodations with a full kitchen, permitted me time to stroll among the vines, sampling grapes and wine, and even resulted in an invitation to stay on to help harvest the current crop! Shopping for dinner in the nearby tiny town of Upper Moutere, where I found gluten free split pea soup in the refrigerated section, as well as rice crackers, local cheese, organic salad and fruit, made me seriously consider accepting that "job" offer!

Given its geographic isolation, eating gluten free in New Zealand proved to be, surprisingly, the least challenging feat of my journey. Perhaps that’s because it’s a small country that does things on a small scale, where every town has a thriving business area, and independent cafes serving fresh local fare are the norm. Or perhaps it’s because New Zealanders live closer to the earth due to their strong agrarian history and forward-thinking green politics. For whatever reason, gluten free food seemed to be everywhere. Grocery stores stocked products such as Venerdi bread, Healtheries cereal, Freedom Foods snacks and cookies, Orgran spaghetti in a tin, Signature heat-and-eat pancakes, and Keweka prepacked meals. I encountered bakeries that prepared gluten free breads and pastries several days a week, and numerous coffee shops (even Starbucks!) that sold gluten free cookies and cakes. Many cafes also routinely labeled their gluten free meals, with offerings such as pizza with sweet chili, Thai fish cakes, lamb salad with marinated onion, tomato, and balsamic reduction, and roast pumpkin and feta frittata. One restaurateur even told me they “do it all the time” when I inquired about getting a gluten free dinner!

The Coeliac Society of New Zealand’s website lists gluten free food manufacturers, distributors, and celiac-friendly restaurants. It’s important to note, though, that the country uses a two-tier approach to labeling gluten free food. The first tier, labeled “gluten free,” can contain no detectable gluten, no oats or their products, and no cereals or their products containing gluten that have been malted. The second tier, labeled “low gluten,” can contain no more than 20mg gluten per 100g of the food. This amount is equivalent to the U.S. measurement of 200 ppm gluten in food, which is higher than the 20 ppm of gluten in food that the U.S. FDA is currently considering as the threshold for foods labeled gluten free. I stayed away from anything labeled “low gluten.”

With gluten free food easily available, I made it a point to eat cake with every cup of coffee, just because I could! So it was a good thing my time in New Zealand culminated with a three-day hiking and kayaking excursion through Abel Tasman National Park on the South Island. Being outdoors, treating my mind to beautiful scenic vistas, and my body to challenging physical activity, all the while not worrying about where my next gluten free meal was coming from, I felt renewed. Alive. Like the missing “x-factor” had been found.

Midlife crisis? I can’t answer that one. But two days after I returned home from New Zealand, there was a family gathering to celebrate my grandmother’s 90th birthday. Jet-lagged, yet still feeling “up” from my three weeks away, I was surprised when an old-timer pulled me aside. “I don’t know what you’ve been up to,” he said. “But whatever it is, keep on doing it. It’s working.” Looking at my grandmother, my parents, my husband, and my growing children, I knew I had no regrets. I also knew that the next 45 years would be every bit as good as the ones just past. I just have to convince them all to move to New Zealand with me so I can take that job harvesting organic grapes!

Helpful Information

Current roundtrip airfare from Los Angeles to Auckland begins at $1066 on Qantas and $1279 on Air New Zealand. Both airlines can provide gluten free meals with 24-hour notice. New Zealand is in the southern hemisphere, so the seasons are opposite of North America. Airfares are higher during their summer, which runs December – March.

Many travel companies run escorted tours to New Zealand. Bob & Ruth’s Gluten-Free Dining & Travel Club last led a 14-day tour to New Zealand and Australia in 2004. The itinerary included Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city, and Rotorua, located north of Tongariro National Park. It’s a geothermal area and center of native Maori culture.

For more information about New Zealand’s customs regulations, visit http://www.customs.govt.nz/.

The official website for Tourism Zealand is http://www.newzealand.com/.

To learn more about New Zealand wine, go to http://www.nzwine.com/.

For gluten free information, see the Coeliac Society of New Zealand website at www.colourcards.com/coeliac/.

The College Trip

There comes a time in every parent’s life when we have to let go. Even though I’m not quite there yet with my oldest son, I know it’s coming soon. He’s a senior in high school, after all, with college looming just around the corner. So why do I feel so unprepared for this next stage?

Maybe it’s because I’ve been so darn busy lately. Moving back to the U.S. after living in Italy for two years has kept me on the fringe of insanity, what with all the packing, unpacking, and traveling. Not to mention my husband’s military retirement, his months of searching for and starting a new career in the civilian world, deciding where to live, buying a house, and getting all three kids settled into yet another new school system. And then there’s the celiac side of my life, which follows me around like a shadow, with its own set of needs and demands.

Fortunately, my son, Peter, took the lead with regard to his college career. He wrote to schools, collected information, talked with peers and counselors, narrowed down his choices, and set up dates to visit the schools that interested him the most. The only thing he couldn’t do by himself was drive to the schools because, after living in Europe where the driving age was 18, he still didn’t have a driver’s license.

So one beautiful day this past fall, my husband, son and I, with Map Quest directions in hand, pointed the minivan north to visit five small liberal arts colleges in New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Connecticut. Since the timing of this milestone trip came amidst such an overall tumultuous time in our lives, I didn’t do too much preparation for it celiac-wise. For even though I instinctively knew what to pack in the cooler for the car trip, including snacks and breakfast food, and I’d actually made reservations at hotels for two of the three nights we’d be away, I was still nervous. That’s because it had been two years since I was a person with celiac disease traveling in the U.S. It was almost as if I were navigating foreign territory!

More than half way through the first 340-mile leg of the trip, we pulled off the highway and into a Wendy’s. Recalling that Alamo Celiac (http://www.alamoceliac.org/) member Debbie Holladay included this fast food place in her April 2007 newsletter review I felt it was a safe bet for a quick bite. Inside the restaurant, a nutrition poster listed the top major food allergens for all of Wendy’s food items, making it easy for me to choose chili and a baked potato for my lunch. Just to be sure I hadn’t poisoned myself, I also later checked Wendy’s website for their updated gluten-free list.

A few more miles down the road we arrived at the first college on my son’s list. We joined up with other potential students and their families for a one-hour information session followed by a one-hour student-led campus tour. Then we took a quick jaunt into the nearest town (bookstore, jewelry store, smattering of eateries, not too many bars) before hitting the road again. We needed to log an additional 200 miles that night to reach our hotel so we could attend another school’s information session and campus tour early the next morning.

Our route from New York State to Vermont took us through Albany right about the same time that evening rush-hour traffic and nighttime darkness engulfed us. Struggling to focus on the miniscule letters on my road atlas, I directed my husband to a highway exit that led away from the city along a dark and twisty road, in a sparsely populated area, towards Vermont. Noting it was nearing dinnertime, and doubting I’d find a place that could accommodate me, I was resigned to snacking on hard-boiled eggs, crackers, and fruit I’d brought along for just such a scenario.

Right about then, however, a hand-painted sign above the doorway on a barn-like structure at the side of the road caused me to do a double-take. “Did you see that?” my husband asked excitedly. With a hard brake and a quick U-turn, we all sat dumbfounded outside a place called Sherry Lynn’s Gluten Free Bakery & Café, in Brunswick, NY. Run by celiac Sherry, and her non-celiac husband, the restaurant was birthed from their frustration over not having a safe local place where Sherry could eat out. In their two months of business, a steady stream of celiac customers, in addition to a loyal local non-celiac following who just like the food, have made their way to Sherry Lynn’s. They also recently catered a support group meeting in nearby Albany. The night we were there, a large pan of gluten-free pasta and oversized gluten-free rolls tempted our palates. Neither disappointed. On the way out I also purchased sweet cinnamon fritters for breakfast the next morning.

Back in the van, rechecking our route before setting out, I noticed something strange - we were on the wrong road to Vermont. Somehow I’d mixed up the directions and had pointed us towards a college we’d be visiting later in the trip instead of to the one where we had an appointment the next morning. Quickly calculating what we should do at this point (backtrack all the way to the interstate or forge ahead on the dark county roads), I marveled at the improbability of it all: I was in New England, visiting colleges with my son, when I took a major wrong turn and found a newly-opened totally gluten-free restaurant. Call it what you will – fate, fortune, destiny – but I’d like to think of it as the wave of the future; that dining gluten-free in the U.S. will just keep getting easier!

But my story doesn’t end just yet. This is just the first day, after all. We still have to get to Vermont and we still have four more colleges to visit.

So off we went (we chose the dark county road), arriving several hours later at our hotel. When asked by the hotel clerk if we wanted the morning breakfast buffet, I told her I probably couldn’t eat most of their offerings because I had to eat gluten-free. “That’s so weird,” was her reply, “you’re like the third person this week who’s told me that.” Naturally, then, I asked her for any recommendations about places in town where I’d have the best chance of getting a gluten-free meal. She immediately suggested a restaurant that serves mostly local organic fare, and said she’d leave a note for the morning clerk to call them for me.

The next morning I checked with the morning clerk, who did indeed have a note from the night clerk about calling the restaurant. Since it was still early, though, she said she’d have to wait a little later to make the call, and asked if I had a cell phone number where she could reach me later to give me the lowdown. At the exact agreed upon time, my phone rang, and I was given the good news that a gluten-free meal would be no problem. What the hotel clerk didn’t know, however, and what I discovered upon dining at the restaurant, was that one of the owners has relatives with celiac, and right there on their menu they mention being able to handle special dietary requirements, including gluten-free. I had a burger, no bun, spiced up with hot sauce and peppers, smothered in melted cheese, and a rather wild-looking salad with ingredients that seemed to have been freshly gathered from the nearby river bank!

And so the rest of the long weekend went. Hundreds of miles in the van, punctuated by information sessions and campus tours of small liberal arts colleges, fortified by healthy snacking, gluten-free dining, and restful hotel stays. The New England area is dotted with charming and historic Bed & Breakfast accommodations, several which apparently can provide gluten-free meals (see http://www.1-888-inn-seek.com/) but this was not the type of trip where such ambiance and pampering could be appreciated.

It was also interesting to note that chain restaurants were conspicuously absent in many areas of New England, so it was only when we were back in the New York suburbs that we found a Bonefish Grill with their gluten-free menu. En route, I also tapped into the GFRAP website and located a hot dog joint, called Soul Dog, in the downtown area of Poughkeepsie, NY, not far from the final college on our list. Much like the school, the restaurant was fresh, lively, and artsy. Unlike the school, it was incredibly affordable!

Run by yet another husband-wife team, and with a Zagat listing, Soul Dog's specialty was gluten-free hot dogs (Sabrett brand – the kind New York City hot dog vendors sell) served on homemade gluten-free buns that didn’t fall apart! All varieties of their hand-cut fries (Soul Fries, BBQ Fries, Jamaican Jerk Fries, and Cajun Fries) were also gluten-free, and they served gluten-free chili, salads, pizza, and beer. But the best part? All of their desserts were gluten-free! On the day I was there, the owner was making gluten-free cinnamon fritters and donut holes, samples of which he passed out to all his celiac diners. I believe there was one of us in each group of diners, which strongly confirms the point that celiacs can and do drive business. That is, any place a celiac can dine, their non-celiac family and friends will follow. Soul Dog also did a brisk business with seemingly non-celiac locals.

After visiting the five colleges, Peter was hard-pressed to say which one was his hands-down favorite school. Realistically, he knows he’s done his best to obtain admission to these schools by being a good student, doing well on standardized tests, participating in extracurricular activities, and using his written essay to set himself apart from the other thousands of students also applying to the schools. Also realistically, he knows he'll most likely go to whichever school gives him the best financial aid package. A bit selfishly, I hope he gets accepted at the school that boasted it has culinary school-trained chefs working in its kitchen who can accommodate special dietary needs (I’ll need to eat when I visit him!). If only it wasn’t the farthest one from home. For, while I know that I’ve done my best to prepare him to take this giant leap into adulthood, and that it’s now up to him to choose the path he wants to follow, I’m just not sure I’m prepared to let him go.

HELPFUL INFORMATION

Sherry Lynn's Gluten Free Bakery & Cafe
1691 Rt. 7
Brunswick, NY 12180
Tel: 518-279-9267

Gluten-Free and Easy in the U.K.

I recently traveled to the UK (England and Scotland) for the very first time and found it relatively easy to eat gluten-free. Many restaurants were familiar with celiac (coeliac) and weren't put off by my requests. Here are a few discoveries:

1) Jacket potatoes, with various toppings, are a meal standard, and are usually served with a side salad. Gluten-free and cheap.

2) Marks & Spencer has ready-made meals that are healthy and relatively inexpensive, such as salad meals. Just make sure to get one without the pasta.

3) AMT coffee shop (like a Starbucks) sells gluten-free food bars at the check-out counter. Don't we wish Starbucks had something like that?

4) Holland and Barrets health food store chain sell gluten-free bread, crackers, cookies, etc.

5) Boots Chemist has some gluten-free items, and sometimes prepared meals.

6) Grocery stores such as Tesco and Sainsbury have gluten-free items.

7) Several chain restaurants in the UK have gluten-free menus:

• Smollensky's (American fare)



• La Tasca (Spanish tapas)



• Wagamama (a stir-fry place - it doesn't have gluten-free menu but can modify several of their dishes)



• Pret a Manger (I was told they have a gluten-free list but I did not go here so cannot verify the list)

8) In Edinburgh, I highly recommend a meal at Always Sunday Food Company, near St. Giles Cathedral at 170 High Street (the Royal Mile). Tel: 131-622-0667. It's a healthy place to eat and they know gluten-free.

9) In London, check out The Souk, an Arabian fast-food restaurant, with eat-in, carry-out, and delivery service. All of their wheat-free dishes are clearly marked (remember to ask if they are also gluten-free). They also sell gluten-free packaged foods in the refrigerater section. Address: 8 Adelaide St., London WC2N 4HZ. Tel: 020-7240-2337. http://www.thesouklondon.co.uk/.

10) In York, eat at El Piano Restaurant Cafe and Bazaar. Gluten-free menu items are clearly marked, delicious, and inexpensive. Everything is also vegetarian. Address: 15/17 Grape Lane, The Quarter, York, Y01 7HU. Tel: (0) 1904-610676. http://www.elpiano.co.uk/.

11) Pay attention to packaging because "gluten-free" and "wheat-free" products are often side-by-side on shelves.

12) When reading ingredients on packages, also look for the presence of wheat starch, which is considered gluten-free in the UK.

13) Do not eat anything made with scotch broth. It's made with barley.

14) Shop at the street markets for food treats. This one is at Portobello Road.

15) Gluten-free food is readily available at the airports!

A few other non-food tidbits:

1) If you go to Edinburgh, stop in at Neanie Scotts's shop, located on The Royal Mile. Neanie's granddaughter runs the shop and loves to tell you its history. It's one of the most authentic expriences you'll have while in town.

2) See a show in London. It's a "must-do."

3) Traveling in the UK is expensive! But worth it!

A Celiac's Guide to Eating in Italy

Book store and library shelves are chock-full of guidebooks to help travelers get the most out of their trip to Italy. Advice is offered about which famous sites to see, where to stay, and what to eat. But not a single guidebook points the celiac traveler in the direction of a gluten-free meal!

Below, then, is a list of some of the major tourist destinations in Italy and the names of restaurants near these sites that can accommodate the gluten-free diet. I can personally recommend most of the restaurants. Many are drawn from the more than 855 hotels and restaurants that have been trained by the Italian Celiac Association (AIC). These are indicated with a *. For a complete list of AIC venues, go to http://www.celiachia.it/. As updates become available from fellow travelers, I'll include their comments and the dates of their travels - with their permission, of course.

Venice

• *Ristorante da Poggi, rio terra de La Madalena, 2103 Cannaregio, Tel: 04-1721199. Located between San Marcuola and Ca’ d’Oro vaporetto stops.

Florence

• *Trattoria Cammillo, Borgo S. Jacopo, 57, Tel: 05-5212427. Near Ponte S. Trinita.
• *Ristorante Ciro & Son’s, Via del Giglio, 26/28r, Tel: 05-5289694. Near San Lorenzo.
• *Ristorante La Gratella, V. Guelfa 8 R, Tel: 05-5211292. Near Galleria Dell’Accademia.
• *Ristorante I Quattro Amici, V. Orti Oricellari, 29, Tel: 05-52154513. Near train station.
• *Ristorante Il Portale, V. Alamanni, 29r, Tel: 05-5212992. Near train station.

Rome

• *Alex Café, Via Vittoria Veneta 20, Tel: 06-4823618. Metro: Barberini. Located directly across the street from the Cappuccin Crypt. The price is high, quality mediocre, and service fair. I've had much better meals at much lower prices, but it was nice to get gluten-free pasta in a centrally located restaurant. (Update by KathleenO'Neil: A fancier place in a glass-enclosed space on the sidewalk, offers a gluten-free menu in English and other languages (they cater more to tourists). The food was good, but not exciting. April 2008)
• *La Mimosa Fiorita, Via Bari 11 A, Tel: 06-44291958. Metro: Policlinico, and then there’s about a 3-4 block walk. (Update by Kathleen O'Neil: A nice family-run restaurant with GF pasta, pizza and other offerings - my waiter was also Celiac and took good care of me. There was no official GF menu, but I just described what I wanted and they were very accommodating. I enjoyed the seasonal roasted vegetables a la carte as my antipasti, and they made me some focaccia with pizza dough as my bread. April 2008)
• *Renovatio, Piazza Risorgimento 46 A, Tel: 06-68892977, http://www.ristoranterenovatio.it/. Located in the vicinity of the Vatican, near Via Crescenzio.
• LaTavernetta di Pepi Claudio, Via Sistina 147. Tel. 06-4741939, http://www.tavernettasistina.it/. Located between Barberini and Spagna (Spanish Steps) Metro stops. The owner and his daughter took very good care of me. For more information see "Reflections of Rome" in November 2006 archives. (Update by Kathleen O'Neil: No set gluten-free menu, and the waiters I spoke to didn't know what Celiac was, but the manager did and explained it to them. I had a basic, good but unexciting meal of roasted chicken and a vegetable. April 2008)
• Miscellanea, Via Della Paste 110 (a block toward Via del Corso from the Pantheon). This is a very casual sandwich and salad place. There are no GF sandwiches, but many of the salads are natually gluten-free and are meals in themselves. (Update by Kathleen O'Neil: No GF menu, the owner wasn't there when I came by, and the waiterI spoke with didn't know about Celiac. Only the salads looked safe - it's a pretty Americanized pasta and pizza place. It advertises itself as a restaurant for American students, so they do speak English well. April 2008)
• Giulio’s Osteria del Crispi, Via Francesco Crispi 19. Tel. 06-6785904. Reservations required. Located between Barberini and Spagna (Spanish Steps) Metro stops. I ate here on two separate trips to Rome, and each time had a wonderful meal - the best was an asparagus risotto. (Traveler Kathleen O'Neil said the restaurant was closed when she was there in April 2008, and possibly no longer in business. My observation was that this restaurant is open only certain days of the week and even then only certain hours of the day. So call and inquire).
• Il Tulipano Nero in Trastavere (SW Rome), off Piazza San Cosimato, Via RomaLibera 15, 06-5818309. A casual, neighborhood pizzeria and restaurant that has a gluten-free menu, including gluten-free pizza, pasta and a British GF beer. The pizza crust was the best I've had - just like the real thing. I went there twice and ordered a pizza to go for the next day's lunch (something that confused my hotel's staff - they apparently don't believe in eating cold pizza there.) Save room for the GF desserts, including tiramisu. (Info provided by Kathleen O'Neil, April 2008)
• *Best Western Hotel Spring House, Via Mocenigo 7. Tel. 06-39720948. Located past Vatican City, about 5-6 blocks from Ottaviano S. Pietro Metro, and about 2 blocks from Cipro Musei Vaticani Metro.. I didn't have an opportunity to stay here, but I did contact them and learned they have gluten-free food at their breakfast buffet for guests staying at the hotel, and was told there are many restaurants not far from the hotel that offer gluten-free food.
• *Hotel Holiday Inn Eur Medici, V. le Castello della Magliania 65. Tel. 06-65581. This hotel is located near EUR, which is halfway between the airport and downtown. They provide a free shuttle bus to downtown. Otherwise, it's 6 km from the Metro Magliania, and then you must take Bus 771 to the hotel. The Muratella city train is 200 meters from the hotel. Gluten-free options are offered for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Non-guests must make restaurant reservations.
• Gelateria: 1) Gelateria Buccianti, Piazza Cavour 18 (near Castel Sant'Angelo) Has GF cones, but said only the fruit flavors were GF (not sure if that was due to potential cross-contamination or ingredients). Liked the raspberry.2) Il Gelato di San Crispino, 42 Via Della Panetterra (right around corner fromTrevi Fountain). No cones, almost all flavors are GF (so try the chocolateand the hazelnut!) 3) Fior di Luna, Via della Lungaretta, 96 (http://www.fiordiluna.com/). Another place without cones, also sells chocolates. 4) A gelato place in Piazza Sant Eustachio has the GF cones, but I didn't try their gelato (I didn't write down its name). You should still ask if the gelato is GF, even if they have the cones. I asked at one gelateria on Viadei Serpenti that had GF cones, but they said none of their gelato was safe since they didn't thoroughly clean the gelato mixer between batches. (All gelateria info provided by Kathleen O'Neil, April 2008)

Cinque Terre

• *La Barcaccia, Via Molinelli 6/8, Monterosso al Mare, Tel: 01-87829009.
• Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia, Piazza Marconi 29, Vernazza, Tel: 01-87821193.

Siena

• Nello la Taverna, Via Porrione 28, Tel: 05-77289043. Near City Tower in Il Campo.
• Osteria Il Ghibellino, Via dei Pellegrini 26. They have aGF menu. (Info provided by Kathleen O'Neil, April 2008)
• Gelateria: 1) Il Gelato, Piazza del Campo 41 2) Super Parma, 27 Banchi di Sotto. (Info provided by Kathleen O'Neil, April 2008)

Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi Coast

• *Pizzeria Ciro a San Brigida, via S. Brigida 71/75, Napoli. Tel. 081-5524072. Located near the Galleria.
• *Ristorante Pizzeria La Fenice, via degli Aranci 11, Sorrento. Tel. 081-8781652. http://www.ristorante-la-fenice.com/.
• *Osteria La Stalla, via Pieta 30, Sorrento. Tel. 081-8074145.

Eating Gluten-Free in Italy: A Primer

A typical Italian breakfast consists of a pastry and a cup of cappuccino (a coffee concoction of espresso, steamed milk, and frothed milk). In some small hotels, and especially in Italian B&B’s, this may be the only items offered. Some larger hotels offer a breakfast buffet, with yogurt, cheese, and possibly eggs. I’ve fared the best in my travels around Italy when I’ve carried my own breakfast food. Almost any farmacia will stock at least a couple gluten-free products, such as bread, muffins, cereal, crackers, and cookies, so it’s not necessary to carry an entire vacation’s supply from home!

Lunch is easier to do gluten-free, although sometimes frustrating when the quickest and cheapest foods seem to be the kind that are off-limits – pizza and panini (sandwiches). A fast and somewhat inexpensive option is to find a tavola calda (warm table), which is a buffet that serves meats, vegetables, cheeses, salads, and fruits, in addition to regular pasta dishes. Another choice, especially if the weather is fine, is to picnic. I have fond memories of shopping the outdoor market at Campo de’ Fiori in Rome, buying cheese from one vendor, cherry tomatoes from another, and fruit from yet another, and then sitting at the base of a statue in the square, feasting amidst the hubbub of Roman life. Alimentari (small specialty shops) and supermercato (grocery store) are also great places to pick up picnic items. Some of the larger grocery stores also carry gluten-free items.

Dinner offers the most variety to celiacs, and there are several types of restaurants to choose from: ristorante (usually fancier with extensive menus), osteria (serves regional food and has a wine bar), trattoria (casual family-run place), and pizzeria.

A typical Italian menu consists of several sections. First is the antipasto (appetizer), then the primo piatto (first course that is usually pasta but also can be soup or rice), secondo piatto (second course of meat or fish), and contorno (side dish/vegetable). If a place serves pizza, that gets its own section. There also may be listings for formaggio (cheese) and dolce (dessert). It’s not necessary to order from every section! I usually can find a safe antipasto and secondo for a complete meal.

Fortunately, for both residents and visitors to Italy, there is an Italian Celiac Association (AIC), with active local support groups. Their biggest accomplishment, in my opinion, is the establishment of a gluten-free restaurant training program. Restaurants, pizzerias, agriturismi, and hotels can receive this training. Then, the AIC includes the business’ information on its website, www.celiachia.it. The list can be accessed either by going directly to the “Ristorazione” section of the website, or by clicking on the segment created especially for English-speaking travelers. Entitled “Vademecum for the Celiac Voyager,” this area has lots of helpful information for tourists, including a section called “Choosing at the Restaurant,” that offers suggestions for the safest food when not dining at an AIC-trained dining establishment. As well, there is a part called “Prontuario” that lists commercially available gluten-free products. When eating in an Italian Celiac Association trained restaurant, it will almost always have gluten-free pasta, so I always make it a point to have a primo!

And what about gelato? More often than no, I eat it. While the AIC maintains a list of specially trained gelateria, they are few and far between. So, after talking with a few places and being shown ingredient lists, I’ve decided that eating gelato is generally a safe bet. It’s interesting to note that gelato flavors also change with the season because of the use of fresh ingredients! As at any ice cream shop, though, it’s important to understand that scoops can come into contact with cones, and cone pieces can fall into the gelato. It also goes without saying not to order any flavors that contain gluten items, such as tiramisu, and to remember to ask for it in a coppa (cup). My favorite flavors are fragolino (strawberry) and fiore di latte (flower of milk).

The End of the Italian Journey

I moved to northern Italy with my husband and our three sons two years ago. My husband’s job as a military officer was the reason for the move – he had no choice but to answer the “call to duty.” As for me, I heeded the “call to journey - with celiac disease.”

Prior to the move, numerous family members and friends had expressed concern about how I would manage my gluten-free diet while living in the motherland of pizza and pasta. Admittedly, I was also a bit apprehensive about what I would find to eat when dining out, where I would buy gluten-free products, and how I would convey my needs when I couldn’t speak the language. With our time in Italy now drawing to a close, I realize that worrying about all these things was a waste of time!

Eating is a favorite pastime in Italy so most Italians instinctively follow the time-honored practice of living in harmony with nature by preparing foods according to the season. They take great pride and care in selecting only the best products available and cooking them fresh everyday. This goes for the casalinga (housewife) as well as the Mama who does all the cooking at the local osteria (restaurant). What this means to the celiac diner is that at most any eating establishment, it’s a given that the food will have been prepared on site and the exact ingredients will be known.

I also venture to say that celiac disease is more well-known in Italy than it is in America. In fact, the only difficulty I can recall when dining out came not from an Italian but from a fellow American who was in charge of organizing a group event at a restaurant in Venice. She didn’t want me to participate because she was confident my gluten-free diet would be viewed by the restaurant owner as an impossible, and insulting, request. At first I was crushed, my feelings hurt. Then I struck back, with kindness and information, intent on proving that my celiac disease would not be an inconvenience or an embarrassment. Now, I’m a welcome member of the dining-out group. During our latest trip, to a Palladian villa followed by lunch, the familiarity with celiac was ever so poignantly demonstrated when the restaurant owner simply went to the local farmacia to buy gluten-free bread and pasta for my meal, and prepared my chicken breast on the grill rather than floured and sautéed for scaloppini.

A farmacia is the Italian equivalent of a pharmacy. It’s where gluten-free food is sold because gluten-free food is the “medicine” for celiacs! Every town, no matter how small, seems to have at least one shop. The town where I live, with a population of 16,000, has three. Big cities like Rome and Florence have one on practically every street corner. Of the three pharmacies in my town, one does not carry gluten-free food. Another one keeps only a handful of items in stock, but can order practically anything I want. The third one (naturally, the farthest from my house!) carries a constantly evolving supply. I’ve never wanted for a slice of gluten-free bread, a chocolate cookie, or a plethora of pasta. Frozen gluten-free pizza, gnocchi, and tiramisu are also available. As a familiar face, I even receive product discounts from the pharmacist. The only stipulation seems to be that I speak to her in English so she can improve her language skills, a condition to which I’m perfectly happy to comply.

Mastering the Italian language has proven to be the most difficult task for me these past two years. While the average vacationer can often get by with just a few pleasantries such as buon giorno (good day), per favore (please), and grazie (thank you), greater fluency is required when living or traveling outside the major tourist areas. Even in the town where I live, a mere 20-minute drive from where the American military base is located, English is not common. Many of the Italian students we have met due to our sons playing soccer on the town team tell us they study German as their second language. After all, this area is only a 2-hour drive from the Austrian and Slovenian borders and at different times in recent history, portions of Italy have been under both Austrian and Yugoslavian control.

So, I’ve tried to learn Italian. Sometimes my attempts are even successful. More often than not, however, I get caught up in listening to the melodic intonations of the language, imagining myself at one of the Italian operas that is performed every summer in the first century A.D. Roman arena in Verona. As such, I carry an Italian-language gluten-free dining card with me wherever I go. There’s no sense in getting sick because of a misunderstood word. I’ve also learned to recognize the words for the forbidden grains so I can read ingredient labels when food shopping.

My qualms about living in Italy with celiac disease are not unique. They are the same ones expressed by celiacs moving and traveling practically anywhere new and different. Fortunately, for both residents and visitors to Italy, there is an Italian Celiac Association (AIC), with active local support groups. Their biggest accomplishment, in my opinion, is the establishment of a gluten-free restaurant training program. Restaurants, pizzerias, agriturismi, and hotels can receive this training. Then, the AIC includes the business’ information on its website, www.celiachia.it. The list can be accessed either by going directly to the “Ristorazione” section of the website, or by clicking on the segment created especially for English-speaking travelers. Entitled “Vademecum for the Celiac Voyager,” this area has lots of helpful information for tourists, including a section called “Choosing at the Restaurant,” that offers suggestions for the safest food when not dining at an AIC-trained dining establishment. As well, there is a part called “Prontuario” that lists commercially available gluten-free products.

During these past two years living and traveling around Italy and other parts of Europe, I’ve noted what’s worked best for me, and have sought to share these experiences with other celiacs who also enjoy travel. My dream is to have one central source for celiac travelers, in the form of a celiac travel guide. www.celiactravelguide.com.

In less than two weeks, my husband, children, and I will return to live in the United States. Believe it or not, we do not have a set destination. That’s because my husband has recently retired from 23 years of active duty military service. So, for the first time in our married life, after having lived in eight different places without much say about it (though I’ll never complain about having to live in Italy), we actually get to choose where we want to live! We’re taking our time. It’s a new journey.

A Gluten-Free April in Paris

Sitting in La Terrasse du 7ème, a busy Parisian café just down the street from where Napoleon Bonaparte received his military training at the imposing Ecole Militaire, I was overcome with panic. Before being seated, I’d cautiously asked the headwaiter, David, who was impeccably dressed in a lavender-colored shirt, if he spoke English. He smiled and answered that yes, he did. Then, I bravely gave him my French-language gluten-free dining card. He read it, tucked it into his pocket, gave me a menu, and then walked away. A few minutes later, a different waiter appeared. He didn’t speak English and he didn’t have my card.

Already self-conscious about my inability to speak French, and very much aware of the reputation for rudeness among French waiters, I wondered if I’d gone too far by not only speaking English to David, but also by having given instructions about what I could and could not eat. According to most accounts, it was going to be difficult for me to get gluten-free meals in France. The main reason being that celiac disease still is not well-known in France. It was also pointed out that French chefs don’t take kindly to being told how to prepare food. Dinner at La Terrasse was my first stab at dining out in Paris, and it didn’t seem to be going well.

My friend, Sharleen, and I had arrived in Paris about eight hours earlier, flying into the smaller of the city’s two airports, Orly. It was the first time in the City of Lights for both of us and we were excited about visiting the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Musée du Louvre. Yet we both also wondered how we’d fare in a place infamous for its disdain of anyone who can’t speak the local language, overall insolence, and dislike of Americans (though Sharleen is from New Zealand).

It didn’t take long to bump into our first trial - the airport assistant whose sole job, it seemed, was to help bewildered tourists navigate the ticket machines for the public buses. Surely he had a right to get testy with foreigners. “Parlez-vous anglais?” I asked. “Yes, a little,” came the mildly-accented and modest reply, followed-up with friendly instructions to catch the Air France Bus that shuttles passengers to various downtown destinations. He said we should buy our tickets directly from the bus driver.

Ah, yes, the bus driver. Balding, round-faced, and squinty-eyed. He hated his job and apparently everyone who boarded his bus. Spouting commands I didn’t understand, he glared down from his imperial perch as we struggled to hoist our bags up the narrow bus steps, his eyes daring us to speak a word to him in anything but French. “Deux,” (two) I said, counting out exact change in euro. Then, after having carefully observed the movements of the person in front of me, I plucked my tickets from the onboard ticket machine and found a seat, feeling a little weary.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from all my years of travel, it’s that no matter where I go, there will always be those people who are pleasant, and those who are not! The classically-dressed lady to whom I asked with a quizzical lilt in my voice, “Métro” - she was nice. Though I didn’t know the words she spoke, her motions said to follow her from the shuttle bus to the subway station because she was going that way, too. The man who worked at the Métro ticket counter, he was just indifferent. Or maybe lazy. My guidebook said a carnet (10 single tickets sold for a discounted price) could be purchased from either a human or a machine. The Métro worker pointed to the machine.

Riding two stops to the Ecole Militaire subway station, we emerged onto a busy street and walked the short distance to the Hotel Eber Mars. Nearby were numerous restaurants and shops, including a health food store called Naturalia that had a great selection of gluten-free food. From the hotel, it was then another easy walk to the Eiffel Tower, which was the first place we headed after we checked in, dumped our bags, and munched on fruit, nuts, cheese, and snack bars we’d brought with us.

The weather in April that Sunday afternoon was sunny and warm. Families with young children picnicked and frolicked on the grassy expanse of the Parc Du Champ De Mars that stretches from Ecole Militaire to the base of the Eiffel Tower. Young people quietly congregated in circles to socialize, sip wine, and play their guitars. The scene certainly looked enticing, but we had other plans – an energizing and unique orientation bike tour of the city.

The Fat Tire Bike Tour group that day consisted mostly of Americans. Ranging in age from mid-20s to 50s, and from a variety of backgrounds, we peddled together past a dozen or so well-known sights, including Napoleon’s Tomb, the Rodin Museum, and Musée d’Orsay. While not strenuous, especially since there were numerous information and photo-op stops, the tour did require a bit of nerve to venture into Paris’ wide and heavily trafficked streets. Our reward was a light refreshment reprieve at a charming outdoor café in Tuileries Garden. Most of us imbibed in a glass of wine; many of us commented on the brilliant blue sky, the leafy green chestnut trees that shaded us, and the warm and friendly demeanor of our waiter. We all agreed Paris was beautiful.

It was with that same warm and fuzzy feeling that Sharleen and I selected La Terrasse du 7ème for our first French meal. We both thought the menu could satisfy our dietary needs (she eats vegetarian), and the place itself looked every bit the classic Parisian café, with small intimate tables spilling out onto the wide city sidewalk, all of them positioned for optimal people-watching. When I’d presented the headwaiter with my dining card, he hadn’t appeared offended, and I assumed he took it to the kitchen for a small tête-à-tête with the chef about what meal they could provide for me.

Prior to my trip to Paris, I had, like always, researched the destination in order to pinpoint both my sightseeing priorities and possible places to eat. While my list of things to see outlasted the amount of time I had, information about gluten-free food was short. At one time someone had started a website specifically for celiacs in Paris, but it no longer exists. The celiac listserv provided the name of only one restaurant known for its celiac awareness, and it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays – the two full days of my trip. So I was winging it, relying only on a few guidebook references i.e. “good dinner salads,” and my French-language dining card.

Breakfasts in Paris were surprising fairly easy, as long as I didn’t breathe in the sweet aroma of just-baked pastries that are a staple of the French diet. Though not freshly baked, the health food store did sell packaged gluten-free chocolate croissants that satisfied me. Lunch was generally eaten on the go, much as we did prior to the bike tour, supplemented with yogurt, cheese, and fresh fruit purchased at one of the many small grocery stores around the city.

For me, shopping in the local stores is often as exciting as visiting the prominent landmarks. At a shoe store on Rue Cler, near my hotel, I was on a mission to find the perfect pair of ballet shoes, the latest style in Paris. The store is owned by a father-son team. The father spoke not a word of English, and he knew I didn’t speak French, but that didn’t stop him from talking. The son, who spoke some English, seemed genuinely thrilled we were there, and was eager to know what we thought of Paris, how we found the people, and did we like the food.

Yes, we loved the food. At La Terrasse, once I gesticulated wildly enough to the slightly confused (or was he slightly amused?) waiter, he understood that I wanted to speak with the headwaiter. Approaching the table with my dining card in hand, David didn’t know why I needed him. Apparently, I’d been too wrapped up thinking my celiac disease would give the French another reason not to like me, and hadn’t realized they’d make for me whatever I wanted. A silly thought, I know, because celiac disease does not define who I am, only what I can and cannot eat.

That night I dined on a thick medium-well done steak (the French like their meat rare), and the most incredible butter-drenched garden-fresh green beans I’ve ever eaten. David recommended a glass of full-bodied red wine from the French Côtes du Rhône region. The next night, dead on our feet after wondering about the Louvre for several hours, we ate in the underground shopping mall food court located near the inverted pyramid of the Louvre. I showed my dining card to the two young women working at a place called Le Libanan, and enjoyed a filling meal of Lebanese roast chicken, fava beans, and a cucumber and tomato salad. Probably the easiest gluten-meal I found in Paris was an omelet. Served for lunch and dinner at many cafes, it’s often accompanied by a simple green salad.

My most elaborate meal in Paris was at Les Fous de l’Ile, located on the Ile St. Louis, the little dinghy of an island attached only by a bridge to the historical core of Paris, the Ile de la Cité. My dining partner was a young doctor I’d met two days earlier on the bike tour. By chance, we found ourselves standing in line together at the Musée d’Orsay, waiting to view French Impressionism art of the 1800s, and agreed it’d be fun to have lunch together afterwards at a typical French bistro. Confidently presenting my dining card to the owner/chef of Les Fous (who did not speak English), I got the better meal – a fancy crawfish appetizer and a simple main meal of salmon and vegetables in parchment paper. My new friend ordered andouillette, a fat sausage casing filled with tripe. Much like people, some foods are pleasant. Some are not!